How To Install New HID Bulbs

Many times the headlights of a car seem to be dull or dirty which is “yellowing” that occurs for a number of reasons. Like the sound from your car radio or in–dash navigationscreen the headlights can degrade over time too. Chemicals used for cleaning the car can sometimes cause this effect on a headlamp and other times it is the weather. Acidic rain or just unrelenting sun can cause yellowing along with the “salt” used to deice roads is also huge reason for yellowing headlights. Just like the Giants beating the Packers...the cold can always be a factor. Many times the effect is so bad on a headlight that the unit must be replaced. 

When replacing a headlight it is not always necessary to replace all the bulbs at the same time. HID bulbs are pretty expensive and most of the time will still work perfectly fine in a new assembly. Unlike conventional bulbs they do not dull over time since they are gas powered not filament illuminated. The part of changing these bulbs is to purchase the correct headlight housing for your application. While the same year, make and model headlights may “fit” in your car it is not always the same part if those lights did not have HID. 

The first step to taking apart the old headlight unit that was in the vehicle, which requires removal of the old unit. With the unit removed from the car remove the clips or screws holding on the dust cover and pull the bulb out of the assembly. Be sure not to touch the bulb at all on the glass, the oil from your finger will cause the bulb to shatter once it heats up. Next remove the ballast for the HID unit and inspect both the bulb and ballast for damage.

For the install part of this process, place the bulb in the new assembly and secure with clips or screws depending on the application. Now attach the ballast to the headlamp and reassemble all the other parts of the light. Attach the power source to the headlight to check that all bulbs and signals are working. Once the proper operation is certain, install the unit and check for proper “Gaping” around the unit. Gaping is the space around the unit to the body panels which should all be even. With the headlight in place test the unit once more. If everything checks out the install process is complete.

How to Center a Power Steering Gearbox

When installing a new power steering gearbox there are a few crucial steps that need to be followed in order to have a successful installation. Before installing a power steering gearbox or manual steering gearbox, it is important that the unit is centered. Many mechanics will assume that the unit is centered when it arrives, however usually it is not. Gearboxes can shift in transit, causing it to be misaligned. In order to center the unit before the install, follow these easy steps.

1) Place the unit somewhere it can be braced down and cannot move or fall.

2) Cover the spline with a cloth to prevent damaging the splines during the centering procedure.

3) Attach a wrench to the input shaft and turn until it stops. (never force the unit) This will be the extreme for this direction. (for this install turn clockwise first)

4) Once the unit is at extreme clockwise rotation, mark the unit or move the wrench to a position where the number of return rotations can be counted easily.
5) With this position marked, begin to rotate the shaft back clockwise and count the number of rotations. Be exact on this! Once the rotation stops clockwise, the complete rotations for the unit are known.

6) Divide the number the number of rotations in half and rotate the shaft that many turns back. At that point, the gearbox will be centered and can be marked for center, so that the center is not lost during the install.

7) Once the box is centered, follow the proper procedure for the gearbox installation.

When these short steps are followed carefully, the gearbox will be centered and there should be no issues with the vehicle’s steering.

How to Wire a New Fuel Pump

Installing any auto part can seem like a simple job until you have your whole car torn apart and realize everything is not right. Many a shad-tree-mechanic get the shock of their week when they pull out a fuel pump only to find the wiring to the fuel pump assembly is different than theirs. The first reaction is of course …rage, those sons of $^&*#^’s but this may not be needed. Most modern cars use similar set ups for fuel pumps or updated wiring harnesses that are a simple 5 min wiring job.

Now before you start any job it is essential for you to know that the job is not out of your knowledge range. Just keep in mind this is a machine that will be hurling you down the road at enormous speed. It is not a great idea to be guessing at how it works. So it must be said, if you don’t know how…let someone who does. Oh and don’t ever smoke while installing a fuel pump. When starting the wiring job, determine what colors your factory wires are from the factory harness.  Once you have them you can find a wiring diagram usually supplied by the fuel pump supplier or on their webpage under the help section.

Most new aftermarket and even OEM fuel pumps use a GT280 style electrical piggy back. This unit is a more efficient connection than the older units and has less heat that it creates. The connector was redesigned to reduce the risk of fire and will be easily wired in. Once the wire colors are matched up, attach the wires and use screw on covers to be sure there are no exposed wires. Exposed wires means the chance of spark, spark can mean fire and in the eternal words of Phil Hartman “Fire BAD”.

With the whole new pigtail wired in the installation process is as simple as clicking the new clip into place and lowering the assembly into the tank. Now turn the retaining ring on the pump to secure it and you are good to go.