Basic Oil Change

Changing your own motor oil is the most basic DIY maintenance of your vehicle. It has to be done often enough that it really helps to know how to change your own oil. It's not complicated like a steering rack or AC Compressor install, but it is handy. Below is a short guide on what you need and how to perform a simple oil change in your vehicle.

 You’ll need the following tools and items: A box end or socket wrench to remove the drain plug, an oil filter wrench (if it’s on really tight or doesn’t have grips on the end), an oil drain pan, a funnel, a jack and jack stands, and a long piece of cardboard or canvas to avoid any sudden spills.

Of course, you’ll also need fresh oil and a new oil filter.

Before going out and buying the needed supplies, make sure to check your owner’s manual for the right kind of oil for your vehicle and the amount you’ll need. Oil is typically sold in quarts, so if your car needs 5.7 quarts buy 6 quarts of oil at the store. Then you need to make sure you buy the right viscosity – if your car lists 5W-30, buy 5W-30 even if another viscosity is cheaper or on sale. Always put in the viscosity your owner’s manual suggests.

As far as whether to buy conventional or synthetic, it’s largely up to you – unless your owner’s manual specifies synthetic or you have a turbocharged or supercharged engine, in which case you should also buy synthetic.

Once you’ve gathered everything, park your car on a level surface and jack it up, placing jack stands on either side of the frame. Some newer cars have undercovers, so you may need to remove this to access the drain plug and oil filter. It’s best to change the oil when the engine is slightly warm, but never when it’s hot – all the oil hasn’t had a chance to drain into the oil pan and you could get burned.

Locate the drain plug and oil filer. Most cars have bottom-mount, screw on filters. Locate the drain plug, and place your open oil pan underneath where the drain plug will drain. Some people say removing your oil reservoir cap in your engine bay will help the oil drain out faster and smoother. While this may not necessarily be the case, it will help you remember to put fresh oil in your car before driving off. 

The drain plug is often at an angle – try to position the oil pan where the oil will come out.  Take your socket wrench and loosen the drain plug slowly. Once it seems pretty loose, carefully unscrew and remove it by hand, allowing the oil to spill out onto the oil pan. 

Wait for all of the oil to drain out of the vehicle, and then replace the oil drain plug. Make sure it is clean and free of debris, and that the washer is clean and intact, before putting it back on. Make sure to screw it back on tightly with a hand wrench so you can’t tighten it anymore, but don’t use a socket wrench or anything that would strip it out.

 Then move your oil pan underneath your oil filer. Get out your oil filter wrench and twist off the oil filter. Turn the filter upside down towards the side of your oil pan and let it drain as your car drains the oil out of the oil filter socket. Once it’s finished draining, use rags to clean as much of the oil away as possible, paying special attention to the filter sealing surface. Then open a quart of fresh oil and put a dab of it on the gasket of your new oil filter, then screw the new oil filter in the proper socket. Tighten the oil filter as much as you possibly can by hand – you shouldn’t need a filter wrench unless your hands are too greasy to tighten it properly.

After you confirm that the oil drain bolt and oil filter are properly in place and tightened, it’s time to add fresh oil. Place the funnel into your oil reservoir and start adding oil. Ad about a half of a quart to a full quart less than is recommended by your engine. 

Replace the oil reservoir cap and run the engine for 30 seconds or so to circulate the new oil. Look underneath your car and make sure there are no leaks. Then check the oil level in your car and make sure it falls within the right parameters – if it doesn’t, add a bit more oil to top it off.

Once you’ve made sure everything looks good, remove the jack stands and lower your car.  The only thing left to do now is properly dispose of your old oil. Most auto parts stores that sell oil have a waste oil bin you can dump your old oil in for no charge.

Then you’re done! Once you’ve done this a few times, it becomes a breeze. Now you don’t have to pay someone else to do a simple job, and you can make sure it’s done right every time.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Their Vehicle

Not everyone is passionate about cars. In fact, most people who drive on the road just use their vehicles for transport. Ask the average person what is the difference between a diesel turbocharger and diesel injectors and see what happens. Even so, there are still a few things that everyone behind the wheel should know about their car to make sure they stay safe and don’t endanger those around them. Here is a list of 10 things that every driver should know about their own car.

1 What side the fuel door is on – This is to prevent your frustration and everyone else at the gas station. There is usually an indicator on your dash that tells you which side your fuel door is located. Make a point to memorize it to prevent unnecessary hang ups at the pump.

2 When to replace wiper blades – if your wiper blades leave big streaks on your windshield when in use, making it difficult to see, replace the blades immediately. It is easy and you can switch them out yourself. If you’re unsure of how to do this, we covered it a few posts back here.

3 What the car’s driven wheels are – this is especially important if you live in an area with seasonally icy roads. If you have a two wheel drive car, you need to know whether it is front wheel or rear wheel drive so you know what tires to put your chains on. Always put the chains on the driven wheels.

4 Where the spare tire and jack are located – you never know when you’ll get a flat tire, so it’s important to be prepared. Take a minute to locate the spare tire and jack on your car, and learn how to use them. Go through a practice run of using the jack and taking off the tire if you need to. This will greatly reduce stress if you ever need to use them.

5 What the lights and gauges mean on the dash – the indicator lights on your dash are to help you maintain your vehicle properly. If you don’t know what the check engine light is, or what the indicator lights mean on your vehicle, you can potentially cause serious and irreparable damage which is always expensive. Take a minute to look at your owner’s manual and read what the indicator lights mean, so when they come on you can address them properly and promptly.

6 How to use jumper cables – If your car won’t start, there is a good chance it is because your battery is dead. This is usually caused by leaving your interior or headlights on overnight, or something similar. In order to start your car you’ll need jumper cables, and a willing partner with a good battery. Always keep a set of jumper cables in your car if your car doesn’t come with them, and read up on how to properly use them so you’re not stuck in a parking lot somewhere.

7 When the tires are worn out – We also covered this a few posts ago, but it’s so important it’s worth mentioning again. Driving around on bald tires is extremely dangerous – you have very little traction on the road with less stopping power, and having bald tires increases your chances of an accident. If you put a penny Lincoln’s head down between the tread and it doesn’t cover his head, you need to get new tires.

8 What the tire pressure should be – driving around with deflated tires affects your fuel economy and, in extreme situations, can cause your tires to blow out on the highway. Look in your owner’s manual for the correct tire pressure, and make sure your tires are properly inflated. You can fill up your tires at the gas station – they usually have a tire pressure gauge there for you to use. If they don’t, you can pick one up at any auto parts store for a dollar and keep it in your vehicle.

9 Where the oil is and how much should be in the car -  you should also check the oil level in your car once in awhile, and if it’s low, put a quart of oil in. You can find the oil dipstick and the oil reservoir using your owner’s manual.

10 When the car should be serviced – Again, check your owner’s manual for recommended servicing intervals for your vehicle and stick to them. When you get your vehicle serviced, keep track of what date you had it serviced and how many miles you car had when you did. You can put this information in a small pocket calendar and keep it in your glovebox for reference. Check on it once in awhile to keep the servicing schedule of your car and keep it running great.

Arming yourself with this information will make you much safer on the road, and keep your vehicle running at peak condition. Make sure every driver in your family also knows this info so everyone is prepared and safe while driving.

What is Your Check Engine Light Trying to Tell You?

If you’ve ever had a check engine light come on in your vehicle, you know the fear and annoyance it can strike to your heart and wallet. You might be aware of this light if you have ever tried to get a smog test with it illuminated – it is grounds for automatic disqualification, and usually requires a replacement of an air fuel ratio sensor or 02 sensor. We’re going to explain a little about what this light is, what the light means, and what you can do if it comes on in your car.

 Modern check engine lights, or malfunction indicator lamps, are in place to tell the vehicle owner of an issue with the engine. All cars made in the last few decades come with an engine monitoring system in place called an OBD-II . OBD stands for On-Board Diagnostics, and has become standard in all vehicles to monitor the engine and emissions of the vehicle.  In case of a minor issue, the light will turn on and stay lit – this is usually a loose gas cap, or a failing oxygen sensor. In case of a major issue like a catalytic converter failure or other more serious problems, the light will flash on and off. 

Some have argued that the system was put in place for dealerships and mechanics to get more money in maintenance costs from their customers , but there is no need to go straight to the mechanic if the CEL comes on (an exception to this is if the CEL is blinking – then you need to stop the car and have it towed to a mechanic right away.) If something goes wrong with your vehicles monitoring systems, it will trigger a code that is specific to the problem your engine is experiencing. You can purchase a code reader to get these codes from your vehicle via a small plug on the underside of your dash.

  

 Nowadays OBD-II code readers can be purchased just about anywhere for you to diagnose why the CEL came on.  They usually cost what a mechanic would charge you for checking it once – and of course you get to keep it forever, so it pays off after two uses. Some readers will just tell you the code itself, and others will tell you what the code actually means in English. If your reader just gives you a code, say P1443, you can go on the internet and type in your year, make, model, and your code and it should come up with a definition of what the code might mean. Of course, if you are unsure, it’s always best to take it to a licensed mechanic.

Once you know what is wrong with your vehicle, you can go about fixing it. Simple repairs like a mass air flow sensor gone bad can be done at home in the garage, while more intricate repairs need to be done by a licensed mechanic. Either way, knowing the issue is the most important step for fixing the problem. Next time your CEL comes on, you will at least know what it might mean and take the steps necessary to remedy the problem.

Source: AOL Autos

Essential Vehicle Maintenance: Exterior Care

Aside from keeping your car running great, maintenance needs to be performed to keep your car looking great too. After you've repaired your worn out diesel injectors and diesel fuel pump, your exterior needs some TLC. Keeping your car clean and waxed will prolong the life of your paint job and make your car more fun to drive. Here are some tips to properly washing, waxing, and detailing your vehicle.

 Beyond the normal dirt and dust that collects on the surface of your car, there are other, harder to see contaminants that can damage your clear coat over time. Airborne pollutants, bugs, tree sap, and bird droppings can all degrade your paint so it’s important to scrub it all off frequently. 

Before washing and especially before waxing, make sure your car is parked in the shade if it is sunny outside. The sun can prematurely dry your car leading to water spots, or hamper your waxing efforts. If you plan on waxing your car you may even want to wash your car twice because dirt is difficult to see when the car is wet.

Make sure to use the right solvents for washing and detailing your car. Dishwashing soap is not good for your paint. Buy some kind of actual car wash, and make sure to buy a high quality wax like Turtle or Meguiar’s. Wash your vehicle thoroughly, using a soft sponge or towel, paying special attention to the front grill of your vehicle where bugs and debris often collect. Rinse and dry your car carefully, inspecting the paint for anything left behind. Make sure to go back and scrub spots that did not come clean – if you attempt to wax the paint with dirt or debris on it, you will scratch the clear coat of your car.

 In decades past it was agreed that the best wax to use was very-hard-to-apply carnauba wax – the “wax on, wax off” kind; nowadays technology has advanced enough to provide excellent, more easily applied waxes that are just as effective at protecting your clear coat. Some of the more advanced systems currently require just spray on application and spreading evenly over the paint, no buffing required. 

If you decide to use a more traditional paste wax or cream wax, use the applicator recommended or provided by the wax manufacturer. If they don’t have a recommendation, use a foam applicator pad to apply the wax. Work in small areas, rubbing a small amount of wax and spreading it to the surrounding areas. Apply the wax in a back and forth motion, not in circles, and make sure your applicator and buffer are clean before you begin. If the wax residue doesn’t buff off easily, switch to a very clean towel or cloth.

After you are done buffing, use a soft toothbrush or detailing brush to clean the wax out of the cracks and crevices of your car. After you’re done waxing, your car should have a smooth, glossy finish that looks almost wet. 

Paste wax systems require you to re-apply the wax every 30-90 days to protect your paint, depending on weather conditions. Newer synthetic systems can last up to 9 months without re-application, but some people say they don’t give off the same “three-dimensional” shine that carnauba wax provides, so you’ll have to make a judgment call on what is most important to you.  Either system will protect your paint and keep your car in excellent form for years.

Essential Vehicle Maintenance: Tires

If you want to upkeep anything in your vehicle, the objects that keep your car rolling, and off the ground, should be at the top of that list. Tires are often overlooked because a car with bald tires can still drive, and replacing all four tires can be expensive. When your fuel pump or fuel pump assembly goes out, you have no choice whether or not you want to replace it because your car will not drive - bald tires can get you down the street and back, and the dangers always occur when it's too late. Nevertheless, keeping track of the condition of your tires, and keeping them properly inflated, can mean literally life or death for the people in the vehicle. Here are a few tips to make sure your tires will keep you and your passengers safe on the road.

The main cause of tire failure (when your tire goes flat or blows out) is the friction caused from moving contact with the road. This causes the tread on the tires to wear away. When the tread becomes too shallow, the tire is worn out and should be replaced. Bald tires give you little traction on the road, especially when the road is wet or icy. This means the difference in you maintaining control of your vehicle, and not maintaining control, is dependent on proper tread on your tires. One trick to check if you have proper tire tread is to place a penny, with Lincoln’s head down, between the tread of your tires. If Lincoln’s head isn’t completely covered by the treads on your tires, they need to be replaced.

 

 Underinflation is very detrimental to your tires, and your fuel economy. Not having enough tire pressure causes excessive wear on the tires, and gives you less control of your vehicle on paved roads. You should check your tire pressure regularly. To check your tire pressure, make sure your tires are cool (so when the vehicle has been sitting for awhile.) If you need to go somewhere else to fill up your tires with air, check the tire pressure before you leave and fill up appropriately. You can find out the appropriate tire pressure for your vehicle by looking in your owner’s manual, the driver’s side door panel, the glove box door, or the fuel door.  Remove the cap from the valve on one tire. Firmly press the tire guage onto the valve. Add air to achieve the recommended tire pressure. If you overfill a tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the valve with a fingernail or the tip of a pen. Recheck the tire pressure, and then replace the valve cap. Repeat for your other tires, including the spare.

 Another important factor in maintaining your tires is your vehicles alignment. When you are driving, does your car pull to one side, or shake? A bad jolt from hitting a curb or pothole can throw off your alignment. Have a tire dealer check your alignment regularly to make sure your vehicle is aligned properly. If the alignment is off it will cause your tire to wear irregularly, which can lead to tire blowouts.

You should also rotate your tires periodically, typically every 5,000 miles. Naturally your front and back, left and right tires wear differently on the road. By rotating your tires from front to back, left to right, you can ensure your tires wear evenly and lengthen the life of your tires.

I find inspecting the tires while filling up at the gas station is convenient. While the vehicle is filling up, you can check your tires for wear, visually check for proper inflation, and inspect for any debris that is caught in your tire tread and can damage your tires. This way you will always be on top of properly maintaining your tires.

Essential Vehicle Maintenance: Windshield + Accessories

Your windshield is an extremely important, but often overlooked, part of your vehicle. You can try and drive using your center console screen or car navigation system all you want, but you have to be able to clearly see through your windshield to practice any kind of safe driving. Run through a few checks to make sure your windshield, and the things that keep it clean, are in good shape.

 First of all, examine your windshield for any cracks or injuries in the glass itself. If you notice chips or cracks, have them repaired immediately. Trash, pebbles, and sand particles can fracture the glass and cause dings, which if left unattended, can turn into bigger cracks that affect your visibility. You can buy do-it-yourself products at home, but they are usually inferior to having a professional fix the ding for you, and having the work done professionally is  reasonably priced.

Avoid slamming your doors, as this causes the windshield to vibrate violently and any dings or cracks in your windshield can get worse. Also, try to park your car in the shade whenever possible, especially if it’s going to be sitting for a long time. Direct sunlight does damage the glass over time.

Next, inspect your windshield wipers closely. You can actually scratch the glass by using dirty or debris laden windshield wipers. If they are dirty, or if the rubber is cracked from the sun, it’s best to replace them.  To replace old windshield wipers, carefully lift the entire assembly away from the windshield – it will prop itself in the raised position. With one hand holding the wiper arm, use your other hand to push down on the small tab on the underside of the wiper where it meets the metal arm. With the tab held down you can slide the old wiper off of the metal arm. 

 Prevent the wiper arm from snapping back onto your windshield by carefully resting it against the windshield while you are getting your new wiper ready to install. You can seriously damage your windshield by letting the bare metal snap back onto the glass. Take your new windshield wiper out of the packaging and arrange it how it’s going to lay on your car. Looking at the side of the metal where it attaches to the metal arm, you’ll see that one end of the plastic clip is flat and the other has a curve across the top. Rotate the plastic clip until the curve is pointing toward the wiper blade. Now hold the wiper upside down next to the metal wiper arm, where you’ll see that the curve in the arm matches the curved top of the plastic clip.

Now that you’ve lined everything up, you can slide everything into place. Lower the wiper over the wiper arm, putting the arm between the sides of the wiper and with the open end of the hook facing the plastic clip. Move the hook over the plastic clip, then pull the wiper upward so that the clip’s rounded edge slides into the hook. Pull it tight so that the assembly clicks in place. Carefully lower the wiper back onto the windshield. Repeat the process on the other wiper blade, and you’re finished.

Maintaining your windshield is important not only for your visibility, but making sure your airbag deploys properly in a crash. Hopefully with these tips you’ll be able to maintain a clear, good looking, and safe windshield for years to come.

DIY Vehicle Fluid Checks

There are many different fluids in your car that keep it running smoothly and accurately. The most commonly known are of course the engine oil and radiator fluid, but there are still other fluids that need to be properly checked and maintained to ensure the proper functioning and longevity of your vehicle. Many people don't know that there is oil in your AC Compressor and A / C Compressor - though you do not need to check it as part of regular vehicle maintenance.

 Your owner’s manual can help you locate all of the dipsticks for checking fluids in your car, the necessary fluid changes to keep your warranty, and the proper levels of fluid that should be in your car. Keep your owner’s manual handy for reference if you’re having trouble locating one of the fluid dipsticks or reservoirs in your vehicle.

First step is to park your car on a flat, level surface and set the emergency brake. Then, make sure you have a clean paper towel or shop towel handy – white ones are easier to use as they show the color of the fluids better. Open the hood, and use the stand to keep it open.  

I think it’s easier to check your transmission fluid first, as the car has to be warmed up and running in order to check it properly. After your car is warmed up, leave it in park with the emergency brake on, but running. Locate the transmission fluid dipstick, hook your finger in the loop (and release any clips, if applicable) and pull it out completely. Wipe it off with a clean rag, put it back into its opening, and push it all the way down until it stops. Remove it completely and look at the fluid on the dipstick. There will be indicators on the dipstick if the fluid is within the proper parameters. Wipe this fluid off on your clean, white paper towel or shop towel – it should be a clear, reddish color. If the transmission fluid is very grey or black, it hasn’t been changed in a long time. You’ll need to schedule a mechanic to drop the pan and change your transmission fluid.

The next and most important fluid to check is your engine oil. Your car needs to be cool in order to properly measure engine oil, so turn off the car and let it sit for awhile; the car needs time for all the oil in your car to drain down into the oil pan. There will be an oil dipstick – hook your finger in the loop of the dipstick and pull it all the way out. Use a clean rag and wipe it clean, then place it back into its opening and push it all the way down until it stops. Take it out again, this time looking carefully at the level of oil on the dipstick.

The dipstick has markings indicating an acceptable oil level range –if the level is down by the indicator for “low,” you need to add more oil. If the oil is around the opposite end by “full” or within the properly marked acceptable range, you’re fine.

Take the oil dipstick and wipe it on your clean, white paper towel or shop towel. Pay close attention to the color of the oil. Clean engine oil is clear, and golden. Dirty engine oil is dark brown or black.  Aside from engine oil color, your owner’s manual should indicate how many miles you should go between oil changes – it’s best to heed this advice and change the oil at the proper mileage, and not when it looks particularly dirty.

 The rest of the fluids can be checked by looking at their respective reservoirs. Most of these fluid reservoirs are plastic, and you can see the fluid level through the plastic itself. On the plastic housing there will be fluid indicator lines, much like the dipstick, that read low or full. If you are having trouble seeing the fluid line on the reservoir, jiggle it a little so you can see it more clearly.

Find the brake fluid reservoir using your owner’s manual. Look at the fluid level in the reservoir and see if it falls within the indicator limits on the reservoir itself. Your car should not consume brake fluid – therefore it should not be low. If it is low, it means you have a leak somewhere along your brake lines. Have your car checked by a licensed mechanic to see what is going on.

Next find your power steering fluid reservoir. Look at the fluid level, and see if it falls within the lines indicated on the reservoir, same as the brake fluid. With power steering fluid there may be two sets of indicator lines – one for a hot engine, and one for cold. Make sure to read the level of your car’s current state.

Brake Fluid Reservoir

Now check the car’s coolant. VERY IMPORTANT – make sure the engine is completely cool before checking the coolant. Opening the coolant reservoir when the engine is hot can cause searing hot coolant to come spraying out, burning you. You do not want this to happen. Make sure the engine is cool before continuing. The coolant will most likely be in a reservoir up front, by the radiator. Check the fluid and the indicator lines to make sure you have enough coolant. If not, you’ll need to top it off.

Cars are designed to operate with antifreeze as coolant, not water. Antifreeze is a mixture that has a lower freezing and boiling point than water so it can handle more extreme weather conditions. Many people will tell you to just top off your coolant with water – it is much better to heed the advice of your owner’s manual and buy the correct fluid for your vehicle. Keeping your engine properly cool is essential. Read the label on the antifreeze you buy – some require to be mixed half and half with water, some go directly in.

Lastly, check your windshield washer fluid. It won’t affect the performance of your car, and there are no indicator levels for it, but it is nice to have fluid in the reservoir so you can clean your windshield while driving. Washer fluid that is formulated to clean off bugs and road grime is cheap and works significantly better than water, but you can use water as well. If winter is coming, make sure you use a washer fluid that has a lower freezing point than water – it will be indicated on the washer fluid bottle itself.

Hope this guide helps you maintain your vehicle and address any problems you might be having early.